RE Bunch

From the Journal of Leticia Le-Rang-Par-Duex

The fat you cook with makes a difference. You wonder why anything cooked with margarine and shortening tastes like the other side of goat’s hoof? It’s because it never lived a life. It never ran, saw others like itself. It never knew joy or suffered its own death. Life lived, even briefly, makes the difference.

I only ever cook with fats I render myself. Depending on where the fat is from, the lard will have different qualities. Fatback and Belly can be used in any tasty suppers or fry-ups, but Leaf Fat is best for pies and sweets. Rendering is best done low and slow. Vent well. The beauty of well rendered fat is that it should not go rancid. Mama always said, It should ever only be fat and nothing else. No water, means no bugs can grow in it. If your lard spoils, you did not let it go long enough or you did not strain enough. It should always be smooth with no bits at the bottom. If you see little dark specks on the bottom, use it up quick because it’s not going to last. If done right, lard will hold for a long while in the pantry. 

When it comes to biscuits, I like to use Leaf that I let go a little too long. When it sets up, it’s a pale yellow that almost looks white. Like weathered and sun-bleached oak. Almost neutral tasting but has the hint of spirit left behind in it.

Now in life, much like in death, there has always been more than one way to skin a cat. Butter and soured milk is fine. Is fine like a ticket on the dash. God will know, even if your auntie says it tastes like it should. Live with that however you must. When it comes to creating the layers, your hands know when its right. No need for pins or other contraptions to pat out the dough.

• 2 c AP flour, extra for dusting
• 1/4 tsp baking soda
• 1 TBSP baking powder,
• 1 1/4 tsp kosher salt
• 6 TBSP leaf lard, very cold
• 1 c buttermilk, very cold

1. Preheat your oven to 450°.
2. Whisk together the dry ingredients until well combined.
3. Add the cold lard into the dry ingredients and cut it into the flour until it resembles coarse meal.
4. Add the cold buttermilk into the bowl and stir JUST until combined. The dough should be wet and sticky like a July afternoon.
5. Turn out dough into light flour. Gently pat dough out about a knuckle thick. Fold the dough in half and then turn it 90 degrees. Pat it out and fold it again. Do this about 6 times to create the perfectly flaky biscuit.
6. Gently pat the dough out to a 1 inch thick. Use a round cutters to cut out biscuits. Drinking glass or mason jar mouths work great. Never waste good dough. Gently pat the scraps together to cut out the rest of your biscuits.
7. Place the biscuits in a cake pan or springform pan close together. Touching is fine, but overlapping never.
8. Bake for 12-15 minutes until golden brown. Do not open the oven door for AT LEAST the first half of baking time. You want the steam to stay trapped in the oven to help with the rise.